Among the many labels we can find on our hair and beauty products are ‘organic’, ‘natural’, ‘clean’ and ‘cruelty free’. These reflect the demands of consumers, who have high expectations not only about what products can do for them, but also the suitability for their lifestyles. That’s why it’s vital for salon and barbershop staff to know what’s in products, what the ingredients do and what wider effects they can have – both for their own benefit and that of their clients.
‘Clients want to know not just if their product smells nice, but also what’s actually in it,’ says David Antony, director of the David Antony salon in Southsea.
The increased use of cosmetics to enhance beauty and reduce ageing, and the post-pandemic rise in allergies, are further reasons why ‘it’s important to know and understand the ingredients in products, what they do, how to safely use them and any contraindications’, says Debbie Digby, founder of Feathers Salon Group and CEO of Passion4hair, a distribution and education academy. With hair colourants, for example, it’s important to follow manufacturers’ instructions on testing before use, correctly mix and apply the products, and consult clients to find out their previous exposure and risk, Debbie says.
In the nail sector, ‘everything except products such as hand cream and oils is classed as hazardous, so it’s essential the nail professional knows what the ingredients are’, says Marian Newman of Marian Newman Nails, chair of the Federation of Nail Professionals. During a full consultation for new clients, important questions include whether they have had previous nail services and whether they have had a potential allergic reaction, Marian says.
The client consultation is also a time to find out about lifestyle choices, so staff can match products to suit their needs. ‘Th e consultation is the most important part of your service. If you don’t get it right, you won’t find out what your client likes and doesn’t like,’ says stylist and salon owner Anne Veck, of Anne Veck Oxford.
To find out more about ingredients, Anne advises that salon owners and staff do their research. ‘You need to educate yourself, and that information is just a couple of clicks away on the internet,’ she says.
Common ingredients
According to the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), there is ‘a huge variety of different ingredients that can be used across hair and beauty products, all of which have unique properties and are included for a specific purpose’.
Common ingredients include:
Sulphates: Used as cleansers in products such as shampoos and skincare. ‘Consumers like “lather” and this is why manufacturers choose sulphates, along with their availability and low cost’, says Debbie. But sulphates ‘can be harsh, aff ecting hair and skin condition. Natural alternatives include saponin, glycosides and sulfosuccinates,’ she adds.
Silicones: Used to enhance hair feel, texture and shine, and to give skin products a soft finish. There are concerns that they leave hair heavy and greasy, and are not environmentally friendly. ‘But not all silicones are bad!’ says Debbie. ‘I’m a fan of silica, which is in the silicone category but is derived from sand, so is natural.’
Parabens: Used as preservatives to lengthen a product’s shelf life. Natural alternatives include citric acids, aloe, potassium, sorbate and essential oils.
One common claim on hair and beauty products is their ‘natural’ qualities. But what does that mean?
Caroline Rainsford, the CTPA’s head of scientific services, says there’s no legal definition of the term ‘natural’. ‘It’s therefore important for manufacturers to clearly explain to their consumers what they mean by “natural” and/or “organic”,’ she adds.
As for just how natural the products are, a 2021 study by The Derm Review found that out of the 100 best-selling natural products, most (58%) included at least one synthetic ingredient.
Debbie says what’s important is that natural ingredients are present in quantities ‘big enough to do the job – no “fluff stuff for the bottle”. We need to ask: is the ingredient present in a quality and quantity capable of doing its job?’
And a natural ingredient isn’t automatically a good thing, says Anne. Palm oil, for example, is a natural ingredient used in everything from shampoo to lipstick – but in some cases it is not grown sustainably and is a driver of deforestation, destroying the habitat of endangered species.
Another popular label is ‘vegan’. ‘We’re finding that a lot more clients are asking for vegan products, and we’re able to satisfy those needs as we stock the full Pureology range,’ says David.
But vegan does not always mean ‘natural’ or ‘plant derived’. Debbie says: ‘With consumers demanding more and more lifestyle and value-based products, it’s important to understand formulations and marketing claims. Well-informed consumers know their stuff, so it’s important to be able to answer questions accurately or have the confidence to say: “That is a good question, one that I need to refer to the chemist that formulated the product”.’
Faced with so many labels and marketing claims, the choices can be overwhelming. Debbie advises ‘aligning yourself with companies that are transparent about their products and manufacturing and support you in your ongoing development of your knowledge’.
Building on that knowledge is crucial, both for client safety and the salon’s reputation. As David says: ‘We need to keep doing our product research. It’s our duty to know what’s in the products we’re putting on people’s hair and skin.’
WATCH OUT – CHEMICALS TO AVOID
1. Ammonia: The most common pH-adjuster in hair colour. Frequent exposure can cause serious skin complications, and damage to the eyes, liver, kidneys and lungs.
2. Formaldehyde: A preservative linked to many illnesses, such as eye and throat irritation and asthma, and a known cancer-causing chemical.
3. Polyethylene glycols (PEGs): Synthetic petrochemicals found in many cosmetics, including haircare and colour products. When used in large amounts, PEGs make it easier for other harmful chemicals to penetrate skin, making you vulnerable to illnesses and allergic reactions.
4. Synthetic fragrance: May contain chemicals that are full of toxins, mimic the body’s hormones and disrupt its normal functions.
5. Pigments: For clients sensitive to pigments such as paraphenylenediamine (PPD), choose hair colour low in or free from PPD.
GET THE FACTS – UNDERSTANDING LABELS
- Cosmetics are legally required to have, printed or labelled on packaging, a complete ingredients list, the contents, any necessary warnings on how to use the product safely, and a ‘period after opening’ or ‘best before date’ (if required).
- The industry has agreed on a common naming system: the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients.
- The same ingredient names are used in every European country, and most countries worldwide, to help users identify products with ingredients to which they know they are allergic or sensitive.
- Ensure staff understand the labels by training them on what they need to know.
Find out more.
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